At heart, Alexis Mabille is a couturier. His sensibility doesn’t run to ready-to-wear, at least not in its current, easygoing incarnation. Mabille wants to decorate, to adorn, to bring every kind of feminine frippery to bear on his clothes—bows, flowers, ruffles, and more.
You suspect he would have gotten along fine at Versailles, but in the here and now, his collections inevitably cry out for reduction. This season, Mabille was really pushing himself to strike a more relaxed tone; his muse was the Great Gatsby-era tennis player Suzanne Lenglen and his theme was a romantic take on sport.