Mata Hari may have been a figure of questionable repute, but Christian Siriano zeroed in on the famous exotic dancer-cum-spy’s costumes as interpreted for a 1931 audience: sex appeal sans much skin, exploring the sensual potential of high necklines and long sleeves.
Where both gowns and separates were concerned, Siriano emphasized the quietly erotic—a strappy, laser-cut neckline; a slashed sleeve to expose a sliver of forearm. But there were attention-grabbing elements to spare, thanks to fabrications like a clingy metallic windowpane jacquard, jewel-encrusted satin, and a striated burnout velvet.
