Building on last season’s take on normality, the Loewe Men’s Fall Winter 2015 collection reveals different facets of the evolving identity introduced with Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for the house. A precise edit of essential pieces offers an advanced interpretation of menswear – youthful, functional and aware – in a collection defined by lightness, innovation and materiality. An imaginary leitmotif unites diverse aesthetic influences, as a distinctive yet elusive character – eccentric, classic, playful, awkward, confident and worldly – is embedded against an anonymous backdrop, creating a multidimensional play on a modern man’s wardrobe.
Extraordinary outerwear is at the core, evident in a pale denim peacoat lined with Spanish shearling, a double-faced duffle coat constructed for maximum comfort, and a navy suede trench made out of skins normally reserved for bags. All exemplify the melding of superior design, rigorous functionality and resolute modernity that characterise Loewe today. Silhouette is dictated by ease and volume. Supple knits and wide trousers are contrasted with structure and stripes, while sports references are elevated through high-end materials and refined detailing. A deep military green enhances the Anton backpack, as wallets, scarves, brooches, and a braided heeled loafer, among other accessories, complete the collection.
Visual impact and tactility are achieved through pattern and craft, manifest in a rediscovered French camouflage adapted across the collection, and a lattice of calf over canvas used in briefcases, shoulder bags and the Amazona’s new, roomier iterations. Napa is treated to feel like linen, python juxtaposed with cotton, and mohair brushed for an extra-plush effect. Marine, saffron and yellow accentuate a muted spectrum of natural shades, from mustard and cognac to chocolate and rust to forest green. Flashes of Oro, Loewe’s signature hue, appear throughout, reinforcing the house codes in a contemporary way.
Softness pervades. Leather and exotic skins are recast as supremely modern, versatile and weightless materials, exemplified by an ultra-light yet resilient watersnake blouson with a super-smooth hand and a kangaroo anorak that showcases Loewe’s pioneering waterproofing technology.