David Koma exudes a sense that sexiness was not just a hidden trait of Mugler, but also the house’s way to awakening the beast – away from the legacy of founder Thierry. So technophilia is his thing for Fall Winter 2015 (no surprises here), and those vamp short skirts of late, with leather like a rock chick splashed with retro sci-fi from the ‘80s, are particularly inspirational for him. It was the thigh high slits that propelled a sexual revolution in this show tonight.
Black on black is just the kind of cyborg rebel Mugler should celebrate, and the mere contrast of the gold trim circuit boards added an element of stiffness the clothes have fought to preserve – which meant this tech-effect is indeed suggestively provocative. There is undoubtedly a touch of athleticism Koma has introduced since his ascent, and thus rendering this a new phase in Mugler’s evolution. The anointed Koma may have a different vision, but he has certainly aligned himself admirably with a house that stays rooted on the fashion frontier.