Asking the high-heeled fashion week crowd to totter off-site to a deserted warehouse requires an element of trust in the designer. Luckily Christopher Esber, as he has done for the past two years consecutively, delivered in spades. A garment factory in industrial Marrickville proved an apt location for his Spring/Summer ’13-’14 show.
Sore feet and cab-anxiety were forgiven instantly thanks to this rising star’s knack for making tailoring look new and cool. Raw cotton edges, sculpted hemlines, liquid silver fabrications and languid silk separates created a capsule of wearable yet fresh shapes for the working woman’a wardrobe. But let us be clear, this was not a ‘corporate’ collection in any sense of the word. Cool? Yes. Modern? Yes. Unexpected? That too.
Gauzy checked linen mixed it with heavy wool crepe. Slick leather made the perfect counterpoint to utilitarian cotton shirting. Cropped trouser suits and front-split skirts were simultaneously polished and practical. These subtle textural contrasts gave the entire lineup a touch-me-please appeal but not via the predictable options of fur, fluff or feathers. We’d trek to the back of Bourke for clothes like this any day. And you have that in writing, Mr Esber.
Colours: Navy, black, white, cream, cobalt, oyster, grey, oatmeal, pale peach and sky blue.
Trends: Tailoring, wrap-front skirts and double breasted dresses, oversized shapes, sheer, cropped trousers, leather, crop tops, midi-length hemlines and split-front skirts.
Key Looks: Heavy cream crepe peices with sculptural hemlines, liquid silver tailored separates, sheer linen shirting and drop-waist tunics. Expert tailoring made cool.
Accessories: Black double t-bar sandals with conical heels from ASOS.